The pool was clean yesterday, and your kids were splashing around throughout the day, and now you see the pool looking dirty and green. Just like any other person might be, you’re confused and wondering why my pool is green. And what to do?

It is a common situation, and it isn’t easy to solve. But if you commit to following the three steps below, your green pool will be cleaned up in the shortest amount of time! Keep in mind that there isn’t a magical elixir. However, there are tools and chemicals to help you on your way.

Before we start, it is important to remember that it’s not safe to go swimming in a green pool. Particularly when it’s being cleaned up or getting cleaned. Your water isn’t cleaned or balanced correctly, and you’re more likely to add chemical compounds at high levels. Additionally, you require all assistance you can receive to clear the water and removing bodies from the water isn’t doing your any good.

1. Check Water Chemistry

The first thing you must examine is your water’s chemical composition. If you’re an owner of a pool, you must have a quality test kit available. I suggest the Taylor K-2006C since it comes with the FAS/DPD test. It comes with easy-to-understand instructions and is built around droplets of ten. If you can do it ten times a row, you will be able to pass your chemistry test every time!

In addition to the kit, taking the Aqua Check Phosphate Test and Aqua Check Salt Test is recommended in case you own the saltwater pool to solve most of your concerns. These kits will get you through the winter without leaving your home unless you are dealing with metal, TDS or water with a snare. Any test kit containing only three or two reagents to test pH and chlorine doesn’t serve you well.

Recording your test results will help you plan for your next test. A simple notebook that has a spreadsheet that has a column for each exam, as well as dates, will help you understand your chemical reactions. Keep an outline of the test you have done and how you can solve the issue. Also, it would be best to determine how many gallons of water you have in your pool. Find a reliable online calculator for pool water here.

Take two water samples. One of which should be from the place you fill up your pool. Analyze them both at the nearest store for pool supplies. You won’t be able to analyze for TDS or metals using the abovementioned kits. Make sure you get the results printed to use as a reference.

What exactly is TDS mean, and what is it? TDS or Total Dissolved solids is the whole “stuff” that is dissolved in the water you drink.

2. Balance Water Chemistry

Some basic elements must be taken into consideration for achieving control:

Calcium hardness

• alkalinity (the ability of water to absorb acid)
• pH level (how your water is acidic)
• If you notice that the chemistry of your pool’s water is out of balance and inaccessible, it may be necessary to drain your pool.
• If the test results show that your water’s TDS is at 1500 ppm or more than the TDS that the water comes from the point of filling, You should empty your pool.
• If you’re experiencing the highest TDS with calcium concentrations of more than 300, then you’ve got it right. It would be best if you take your pool out.
• If you’ve got high TDS or calcium readings with high levels and cyanuric acid levels over 50, it’s an easy decision to remove your pool.

You’ll require treatment if your water has more than 200ppb of phosphates. I like the Atlantic Pools & Fountains of products. Atlantic Pools & Fountains is the phosphate removal agent and an enzyme that helps break down organic pollutants. Utilizing a phosphate remover, you take away the nutrients that algae thrive on. Our blog post about stopping algae growth before it begins provides more details on the phosphates.

You can adjust your pH and alkalinity and maybe the calcium content. Change the hardness first if you require an increase and then alkalinity before pH falls to a
more normal level. Adjusting alkalinity and pH throughout your daytime is possible by adding tiny amounts of chemicals over several hours. Do not pour several chemicals all in one go into the water. The test of combined chlorine can show the total you can utilize in the test kits tables to calculate the super chlorination dosage.

3. Clean Your Filter

To wash Diatomaceous Earth Filters ( D.E. ), it is necessary to cut the top off and disassemble grids to remove the filter from the manifold. Clean the muck off the filters using the nozzle of high pressure using a garden hose will bring you to grids covered in fabric. A scrub or pool brush with a little dish soap and trisodium Phosphate (TSP available in hardware stores) will ensure satisfactory hygiene quality. It is important to check the corners, seams and edges for any holes or tears. If the grids have been damaged, you’ll need to replace them. Failure to do so will cause D.E. to be reintroduced into the pool. Cleanse your filters thoroughly before the assembly, and replenish your filter using the appropriate quantity of D.E.

For Cartridge Filters, following the guidelines below for D.E. filters is suggested. It is important to note that your cartridge can be clogged with oil over long periods or for many months. If you can’t bring the cartridges back in good condition, you must replace them. I suggest that you keep another set of cartridges available to reduce downtime. Soaking your cartridges overnight using cleaning solutions for cartridges, such as TSP or the Clear View Filter AID or TSP is a great way to keep a spare set in your inventory. Be sure to rinse your filters thoroughly after a soak.

I recommend that the Sand Filters be cleaned by hand following an algal bloom. Backwashing will not cleanse filters as effectively as a manual clean. Sand isn’t worn out but is laden with oil and debris. It channels, and it becomes hard and hard. If you are unable to get the sand cleaned, change it. To clean the Sand filter, begin with backwashing the filter until the wastewater appears clean. The top is removed from the filter. Use a powerful garden hose to remove obstructions caused by oil and dirty sand. Make sure the nozzle is pushed down until it reaches the base of the filter. Sand should flow freely through the filter while you scrub the bed of sand. You can feel this by your fingertips while you move across the sand. If the sand you are using is filthy, soak the sand for a few hours in a solution of TSP. Then, scour the sand once more using the hose before assembly. If you cannot clean the sand, do not fight it; change it. Once you’ve finished, remove the lid, put it back on and scrub the filter until clean water runs out to the drain. It should be done especially using sand that is new.

The filter should be equipped with a functioning pressure gauge at the top. What is the reason? The filter collects particles and body oils, sunscreen etc. When your filter becomes dirty, it becomes ineffective for water flow, and consequently, its pressure level will rise. The general rule is that when the pressure is between five and 8 pounds more than after cleaning, it’s time for you to backwash your filter or manually clean it. Once you’ve cleaned the filter, note the pressure is reading in your logbook to refer to in the future. Knowing when your filter is becoming filthy will make it easier to identify the cause of problems.

If you’re feeling confused and need more in-depth instructions on how to clean the filter, take a look at our blog post about the best way to cleanse your filter. Are you having questions about changing filter grids or cartridges? Two excellent articles are available about replacing grids for filtering, and the second on replacing cartridges for filtering.

Multi-Tasking

You can handle two essential tasks at the same time. Take care of the chemical issue as you wash your filter. Chemicals, particularly those that adjust pH and alkalinity, can be done using the pump. If you require acid, use 20 percent less than the test kit suggests and use a toothbrush to stir the liquid. When your chemical is working cleaning your filter, you can clean it. After cleaning your filter, switch on your water pump and let it run for 24hrs to clean the water.
If you have a clean filter and balanced water, you need to know if your pool needs an amount of chlorine or requires super chlorination. Also, I’ll refer to a reliable FAS/DPD testing kit. It will allow you to know the amount of the chemical you need to add to your pool using the chart included.

In closing, I’ve some suggestions I’d like to give when taking care of spas and pools and avoiding the mess of the one in a green pool. First on the checklist is the routine. It is a great article on how to create a maintenance plan. Make a point of committing to a half-hour every week at the bare minimum. Please do not put it off, believing you can catch up to it sooner or later. Your pool is being maintained but not making it new again. Check your water, and record the results. Clean your filter as required. The next thing to do is to purchase a FAS/DPD test kit. I prefer the Taylor I talked about earlier We also have other ones and test strips.
My next suggestion is to invest in the purchase of a U.V. system or an Ozone system. Both systems will cut your chemical bills by 50-70 percent. They will eliminate chloramines as well as combined chlorine. For every dollar, they can save you tons of time and money. They cost just pennies every day. It is the Delta Ultraviolet E-46 and E-57 or Del Ozone EC-10 with an injector that can perfectly handle a residential swimming pool size of 25,000 gallons. If you don’t plug it in during winter, these units can last for many seasons.

If you require assistance If you need help, we’re here to help. Our staff has hands-on experience in spas and pools and are open late at night and on weekends. Contact us today – +971 4 340 7787

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